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VELO ORANGE
Constructeur Rear Rack Instructions
As with a custom made rack, the constructeur rack should sit as low as possible, just above the fender. This improves
the bike’s handling and appearance. Place the rack into position on your bike leaving just enough room for a leather
washer between the rack’s mounting bosses (the nuts under the rack) and the fender. Check that the rack is level and
mark the position of the dropout eyelets on the rack’s tangs (the ½” strips at the lower end of the rack). On a 700c bike
this will be about 2/3 the way down the tang. This is where you’ll drill the mounting holes.
Drilling and Cutting the Tangs:
We strongly recommend you buy a new ¼” drill bit for this job. The stainless steel is very hard and using a dull bit will
make the process painfully slow. Be sure the bit is intended for metal. While at the hardware store, you might buy a
fresh hacksaw blade as well. Use a punch or hardened nail to make starting indentation where you on your mark. This
is easier if the tang is on a hard surface such as an anvil or vice. Drip a bit of oil on the tang and drill at a slow to
medium speed. If the oil starts to smoke, stop and drip a bit more on. Overheating the bit will cause it to dull quickly. Cut
off the excess portion of the tang with a hacksaw and smooth the rough edge with a file. (For chrome racks: to prevent
rust, apply some heavy grease to the spots where you’ve drilled or cut through the chrome. If you live in a wet or salty
climate, it’s a good idea to dab a bit of silver rust-proof paint, like Rustoleum, onto the area with a cotton swab.)
Mounting the Rack to your Metal Fenders:
Before proceeding decide how you will attach the fender struts. They may be attached to the same eyelet as the rack
by using a slightly longer machine screw. They can be attached to a second eyelet if you bike has two sets. Or you may
drill a second hole in the rack’s tang for the fender strut bolts. Having the fenders attached will make mounting them to
the rack easier.
Loosely mount the rack at the eyelets, check that it’s level, and mark the position of the holes for the screws that will
secure the rack to the fender. Remove the fender and wheel and drill these holes in the fender. Re-install the fender
and place a leather washer between the fender and rack; these can be cut from a scrap of leather with sharp scissors.
Insert the mounting screws (the short button head screws provided). That’s all there is to it.
Mounting the Rack using the Optional Brake Bridge Strut:
If you have no fenders or plastic fenders, you’ll need the optional brake bridge strut. Attach it to the mounting point at
the front of the rack and secure the rack to the dropout eyelets. Determine where the strut will need to be bent to best
reach the brake bridge (it can go either over or under the brake). Mark this point and remove the strut. Bend the strut;
this is easiest to do using a vice. You might want to tap the strut with a hammer to get a nice crisp bend. Re-mount the
strut and mark the position of the hole to secure it to the brake bridge. Remove the strut yet again and drill this hole.
Screw the strut to the rack for the final time and bolt it to the brake bridge. You’re done.
If you need any additional help, please don’t hesitate to e-mail us at info@velo-orange.com
VELO ORANGE
Constructeur Rear Rack Instructions
As with a custom made rack, the constructeur rack should sit as low as possible, just above the fender. This improves
the bike’s handling and appearance. Place the rack into position on your bike leaving just enough room for a leather
washer between the rack’s mounting bosses (the nuts under the rack) and the fender. Check that the rack is level and
mark the position of the dropout eyelets on the rack’s tangs (the ½” strips at the lower end of the rack). On a 700c bike
this will be about 2/3 the way down the tang. This is where you’ll drill the mounting holes.
Drilling and Cutting the Tangs:
We strongly recommend you buy a new ¼” drill bit for this job. The stainless steel is very hard and using a dull bit will
make the process painfully slow. Be sure the bit is intended for metal. While at the hardware store, you might buy a
fresh hacksaw blade as well. Use a punch or hardened nail to make starting indentation where you on your mark. This
is easier if the tang is on a hard surface such as an anvil or vice. Drip a bit of oil on the tang and drill at a slow to
medium speed. If the oil starts to smoke, stop and drip a bit more on. Overheating the bit will cause it to dull quickly. Cut
off the excess portion of the tang with a hacksaw and smooth the rough edge with a file. (For chrome racks: to prevent
rust, apply some heavy grease to the spots where you’ve drilled or cut through the chrome. If you live in a wet or salty
climate, it’s a good idea to dab a bit of silver rust-proof paint, like Rustoleum, onto the area with a cotton swab.)
Mounting the Rack to your Metal Fenders:
Before proceeding decide how you will attach the fender struts. They may be attached to the same eyelet as the rack
by using a slightly longer machine screw. They can be attached to a second eyelet if you bike has two sets. Or you may
drill a second hole in the rack’s tang for the fender strut bolts. Having the fenders attached will make mounting them to
the rack easier.
Loosely mount the rack at the eyelets, check that it’s level, and mark the position of the holes for the screws that will
secure the rack to the fender. Remove the fender and wheel and drill these holes in the fender. Re-install the fender
and place a leather washer between the fender and rack; these can be cut from a scrap of leather with sharp scissors.
Insert the mounting screws (the short button head screws provided). That’s all there is to it.
Mounting the Rack using the Optional Brake Bridge Strut:
If you have no fenders or plastic fenders, you’ll need the optional brake bridge strut. Attach it to the mounting point at
the front of the rack and secure the rack to the dropout eyelets. Determine where the strut will need to be bent to best
reach the brake bridge (it can go either over or under the brake). Mark this point and remove the strut. Bend the strut;
this is easiest to do using a vice. You might want to tap the strut with a hammer to get a nice crisp bend. Re-mount the
strut and mark the position of the hole to secure it to the brake bridge. Remove the strut yet again and drill this hole.
Screw the strut to the rack for the final time and bolt it to the brake bridge. You’re done.
If you need any additional help, please don’t hesitate to e-mail us at info@velo-orange.com
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